DETAILED ITINERARY
Pequeño Alpamayo Ascent: Overview and What to Expect
The Pequeño Alpamayo ascent is one of the most iconic high-altitude mountaineering experiences in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia. This expedition combines a scenic approach trek, glacier travel, and technical climbing with spectacular views of the Andes and nearby peaks.
The ascent of Pequeño Alpamayo can be combined with other classic Bolivian mountains, such as the Huayna Potosí Expedition, the Illimani Ascent, and the Bolivia Full Mountain Program, allowing for a logical progression of acclimatization and experience in the Cordillera Real.
For more information about tourism in Bolivia and the Cordillera Real, visit the official tourism platform of the Plurinational State of Bolivia: Official Bolivia Tourism Platform
DAY 1: CHIARKOTA
At 08:30 AM, we depart from La Paz by private vehicle towards the mountains. The 3-hour journey crosses the rolling plains of the Altiplano, offering stunning views of the Cordillera Real, specifically the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs. We arrive at Rinconada del Chancho (4,450 m / 14,600 ft), where our donkeys and cook await to carry gear to the base camp. After a picnic lunch, we begin a 1.5-hour trek through a high mountain valley. The route offers great views of snow-capped needles in a glacier-eroded valley beneath the “Alas” and “Cabeza del Cóndor.” We arrive at the shores of Lake Chiarkota (4,670 m / 15,321 ft) to set up base camp.
DAY 2: MT. AUSTRIA TREKKING
A 3-hour ascent following a trekking route to reach the summit at 5,320 m / 17,454 ft (Note: corrected from 3,320 m). This route allows us to discover the vast landscape of the Condoriri National Park, its glaciers, and several major peaks. We return to camp at 02:00 PM. Free afternoon to check climbing gear and practice on nearby boulders.
DAY 3: PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO ASCENT
One hour to the start of the glacier, followed by 2 hours of gentle glacier travel (non-technical) to Pico Tarija (5,320 m / 17,454 ft). We descend for an hour through a section of unstable rock to reach the Pequeño Alpamayo glacier. From there, we climb a snow and ice wall at a 45° angle, combined with some rock passages. After 2 hours, we reach the summit at 5,390 m / 17,684 ft. Return to base camp for lunch, pack up, and descend for 1.5 hours to Rinconada del Chancho. Return to La Paz by private vehicle.
SERVICES INCLUDED:
- Trekking guide for the first two days.
- Donkeys to carry expedition luggage to base camp.
- All meals (outside of La Paz).
- Personal sleeping mat.
- Sleeping tent (2 people per tent).
- Private transportation.
- Entrance fees.
- Kitchen and dining equipment.
- Mountain guide (UIAGM/certified) for Day 3.
- 1 Cook.
SERVICES NOT INCLUDED:
- Personal expenses/miscellaneous.
- Tips for staff.
- Additional costs incurred if leaving the scheduled program.
Summit
Maximum altitude: 5,390 m (Pequeño Alpamayo)
Location: Cordillera Real, Condoriri Range, Bolivia
Mountain type: Sharp alpine peak with snow and ice sections
Route type: High-altitude alpine ascent (Normal Route)
Technical difficulty: Moderate to challenging (snow, ice and short steep sections)
Glacier travel: Yes (generally non-technical under normal conditions)
Climate: Cold alpine climate; frequent snow, strong winds and low temperatures
Acclimatization style: Progressive, including an acclimatization ascent prior to summit day
Summit: Narrow and exposed summit ridge with steep snow and ice slopes
Summit day: Demanding, including a 45° snow and ice wall and mixed terrain
Crowds: Low
Commitment level: Moderate
Typical duration: 3 days
Best for: Climbers seeking a first technical alpine ascent above 5,000 m
Climbing season: May – September
Access: Vehicle approach from La Paz to the Condoriri area
Guiding: Fully guided ascent with certified mountain guide